What is French Desert Noir?
Since our founding, we have always aimed to improve on issued kit, adapting the mainstream for specific roles mission sets. We've created new camouflage patterns before, but this time we followed in the footsteps of many soldiers and reinvented an existing pattern.
Overdyeing in black has its own little corner of camouflage history, used to create a darkened or completely blacked out version of a uniform to either blend into the shadows or stand out. Commonly seen in Opfor camos, black or dark blue is usually very visually distinct and can add an intimidation factor.
We took the classic French Desert "Daguet" Pattern and dyed it black, creating a dark grey palette that is equally at home in urban, maritime and covert environments, still retaining its NIR properties.
Overdye & Dye Transfer — What to Expect
This is product has been overdyed from its original desert camo into a deep night/ops tone — much like how military units historically reworked surplus kit to suit new roles. Just like those unit overdyes, because the dye is applied over existing pigments and treatments, a degree of dye rub-off, or “bleed,” is natural, particularly during early wear and washes.
This Dye Rub-Off Happens for several reasons.
- Excess surface dye: In overdye processes, not all dye molecules fully penetrate and bind to the fibres immediately. Some remain closer to the surface and can loosen under friction or moisture.
- Uneven binding: The original camo print or underlying dye compounds may resist or react differently to the overdying dye. This can leave pockets of weaker binding, which are more prone to transfer.
- Moisture, movement, and heat: Sweat, rain, abrasion (e.g., rubbing against fabric or straps), and higher washing temperatures accelerate dye release.
- Fibre type & thread mismatch: Natural fibres (such as cotton and wool) accept dye more readily; synthetic threads or trims may not hold the overdye as strongly, leading to contrast edges or slight shedding.
What You May See
- Slight colour rub-off on lighter fabrics
- Darker wash water in the initial laundry cycles
- Incremental reduction in “wetness bleed” over time, as residual loose dye gets washed away
- Subtle shifts in tone or mild fading over years of use — part of the rugged, lived-in character]
What this means for your garment.
We ran several test washes at varied settings and saw subtle shifts in tone over washes giving a worn, rugged patina to the dye further emphasising the ad hoc nature of this mission-ready process that overdye is famous for. For the best results, follow this list of care instructions for looking after your new FDN product.
Care Instructions to Minimise Rub-Off
Pre-Wash separately in cold water before first wear, gently, to flush out unattached dye.
Use Gentle cycles, at low temps to reduce dye mobility.
Use colour-catcher or dye-trapping sheets to capture loose dye in the wash and prevent it from redepositing.
Don’t mix with light or white garments until after several washes have been completed.
Turn the garment inside out, and avoid rough surfaces or zippers rubbing against the face of the fabric.
Air dry where possible, avoid using dryers or use low heat tumble
Over time, the dye will settle more fully, and the degree of rub-off will diminish. The slight variances in tone, patina, and shading that emerge are part of the intended aesthetic—not defects, but features that echo the historical practice of reworking military kit for new roles.
